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Which car to use? (Read 10267 times)
RyanHuber
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Re: Which car to use?
Reply #15 - 08/23/6 at 00:24:13
 
I know Warren Haywood, who used to performance rally a golf, had a large juice can under the hood with vacuum lines going into it and then into the brake booster. The theory was that it was a vacuum reserve. The problem is, if you're at wide open throttle the engine makes basically no vacuum, so you get no brake boost past the first press of the pedal. This "tank" he made had a few more presses in reserve. Reason being that when left foot braking the brake pedal would be very inconsistent, sometimes nice and boosted and other times rock hard with no assist. The alternative is what Lurch suggested, take the line off entirely and just get used to a hard brake pedal. Many subaru rallycars have the brake booster removed as well because a turbo car won't make vacuum obviously when it's in boost.

As for the other questions, the CIS-E and digifant are afaik forms of fuel injection.
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Ryan Huber
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suprf1y
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Re: Which car to use?
Reply #16 - 08/23/6 at 12:52:03
 
Quote:
maybe you just want to use UHMW

UHMW means ultra high molecular weight, and refers to polyethylene.
A good choice, but any kind of polyetheline should be fine, and possibly alot cheaper.
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2ndgengsx
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Re: Which car to use?
Reply #17 - 08/23/6 at 14:54:24
 
Suprf1y are you suggesting that instead of making a skip plate from steel or aluminium to use UHMW? Will it serve the same protection as a metal skid plate? Where can i find UHMW sheets?
Ryan does either way you talked about seem reasonable to do or benifit enough to do? Could some one also draw a diagram of the vacuum system with the juice bottle?
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Dave Cotie
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Re: Which car to use?
Reply #18 - 08/23/6 at 15:43:28
 
RyanHuber wrote on 08/23/6 at 00:24:13:
As for the other questions, the CIS-E and digifant are afaik forms of fuel injection.


Ryan is right CIS-E and Digifant are fuel injection sytems that were used in late 80's-early 90's Golfs. CIS-E stands for Constant flow Injection System - Electronic, I believe. They are both Bosch systems.

If this is your first season of RallyX, I don't think you need to worry about playing with the fuel injection. Get a skidplate and a helmet and get your butt in the car. You will find many people that will tell you that Driver experience will make more difference than a few horsepower from playing around with the fuel injectors.

Except for Ryan and his new drivetrain that he was showing everybody. (You got that in there yet Ryan?)
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Dave Cotie
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Re: Which car to use?
Reply #19 - 08/23/6 at 15:54:25
 
Ya, i wasnt to worried the fuel, it was more of a question of what it all meant. Thanks for clarifying.
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suprf1y
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Re: Which car to use?
Reply #20 - 08/23/6 at 17:11:55
 
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Suprf1y are you suggesting that instead of making a skip plate from steel or aluminium to use UHMW?

No, not really, the other guy did. I was just trying to save you a bit of money if you went plastic shopping.
There are lots of plastics suppliers that will sell small peices, but if you could get something used, that would be better (cheaper)
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RyanHuber
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Re: Which car to use?
Reply #21 - 08/23/6 at 17:37:40
 
Yep, motor swap is done, spent yesterday tuning it. All is well, looking forward to it's debut this weekend!  Grin
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Ryan Huber
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C. Hamm
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Re: Which car to use?
Reply #22 - 08/24/6 at 22:35:56
 
FWIW, and not even a rally-X competitor, but have done/seen enough in the grassroots...I'm with DaveC on this.  Unless you have some undiscovered god-given talent, in your first year your "stage" times will be down more to technique and less on squeezing out that other 3 hp in any one of 6 systems under the hood.  Case in point, Louis Cabardos at any winter rally in a "well used" Tercel, light car, great technique, smooth, and no special parts. I'm sure that there are lots of people out there that could beat me silly in my own car, so, it's not all about the car until you've reached it's own limit.  Find your limit first, then worry about all that silly $$$ stuff.  Get a helmet, a simple skid plate, tight seat belts, and some snow (or used rally) tires. Go have fun before it's all about the money.

My 6061 plate for a MkII cost ~ $200 custom fab, I think it's 3/16". It takes a lot of abuse and I've never worried about the underside since.  Plastic stuff will behave differently from metal.  There are even some that say 6061 is too hard, that you want a softer metal so that it bends a bit when you really hit it to absorb more energy.
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