So the only setback is trying to get it to pass e-test?
No problem!  It only failed on NOx?  The other tests passed?
FIRST thing to check: EGR (if so equipped).  That system could be faulty or just clogged up.
Next, check for any pre-cat exhaust leaks.
Finally, O2 sensor.  
Don't waste your time with anything else, until you've done those first, in that order.  They will make the biggest difference to NOx emissions.
Oh yeah, and one other simple trick if that doesn't do it, is you can just retard the timing a bit.  But you have to tread a fine line, because that could cause the other gases to go up.

The only problem is, he does'nt qualify for the "Conditional Pass" rule as he is purchasing the car & not renewing the plates. He therefore has to spend whatever $ amount to make it pass. The other problem with the solution offered by "wedge" is, the ign timing on this car is ECM controlled & does not have a dist, therefore playing with ign timing is not possible.    

How long did you drive the car before the emissions test? I remember my old Jeep (1st car) failed and the inspector asked me how long the car had been running before the test, it was about 10 mins. He told me to go take a drive up and down the 401 with some good speed and I shouldn't have a problem. I returned an hour later with a very warm car, he put it on the machine and I passed. I know a legit shop in Etobicoke that helps you massage your car in order to pass if you need a contact.

So it may be worth the gamble to do another test and see if you pass.

As for the repairs, I wouldn't spend a dime on that car unless you are planning on keeping it forever. My old Jeep was close to my heart, and when she needed repairs I gladly paid up until in one year I spent $1000 on brakes only to have other problems a few months later. If I had done all the repairs I would have been thousands into the car and it's a slippery slope considering the car sold for $1500....it's better just to get as much life out of it as you can and hope that when she dies you can re-coup some of the initial purchase price.

Now on the flip side, if you really really like the car, drive the hell out of it and in the meantime source a 2.2 ecotec engine. The swap is pretty painless and the ecotec engines are a lot easier to work on. $1800 is a little high for labour cost to swap an engine...best would be to do what I did and join a forum for your car (in your case the j body club) and make some friends. I'm currently re building a spare engine for my GTX with two guys who know their stuff and they work for food and beer. Also I would be weary of a car with 2000km on the engine unless it’s brand new, I know with Cav’s and Sunfires the salvage cars sit around for a LONG time and a lot of those used engines with very low km’s are mucked up because they have been sitting for years. Easiest way to swap any car is to buy a fresh salvage, do the swap and then scrap the car.

Feel free to pm me

Sometimes yes, sometimes no.  

Sometimes the adjustment is built into a crank position sensor.

However, often the sensors are non-adjustable.  The 5-cyl 20v turbo audi engine (AAN) uses 3 sensors to determine timing, and all are non-adjustable.  Individual coil-on-plug setup.
-flywheel TDC pin
-flywheel 135 tooth sensor
-camshaft TDC window.

If you want to "adjust the timing"... you either get some sort of tunable chip and swap into the ECU after altering the timing map.  Or you install a standalone system and tune the timing in there.


On the distributor-based non-turbo 10v engine in my 90q... the distributor is non-adjustable (although I have seen it defeated on atleast one car).  All timing adjustment is done by the ECU and not designed to be adjustable by mechanical means.  5 window (or was it 1 window) sensor on the distributor hall sensor, TDC pin.   Timing is adjusted by the ECU alone.

and to logangtx, the car came with eight 12 inch subs mounted in a custom enclosure built into the car where the back seat used to be... powered by 2 1800W kenwood amps, a seperate amp for the deck and front speakers, and a second car battery. i already have a local buyer (monday!) for the deck and front speakers/tweeters for $200, and im hoping to get around $800 for the subwoofers, enclosure amps and battery + wiring. so once i chop up the audio system i hope i can almost break even on my initial purchase.

i think i will definately try to drive the car around a bit and try to etest it again after i change the spark plugs... it has failed 2 etests now, but i bought the car with no plates so it had to be towed to the garage... that would probably make a big difference, now that i think about it

i was talking to my teacher about swapping in a 2.2. the only issues he said are removing the 2.4 (again, a ***** to even look at in his mind), and that the transmission might ave a different mount for the 2.2 then the 2.4... which means id also have to swap the tranny too to match the 2.2 engine, which i would prefer avoiding if possible. thanks for the advice on the engine swap tho... funny because when i saw the only 2000k 2.4l engine for sale, it looked VERY old in the picture... i think you may have saved me some cash haha