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Lightbar - Looking for Input (Read 5657 times)
Dave Cotie
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Lightbar - Looking for Input
08/29/10 at 21:04:47
 
1. Jamie will recognize it. Mounted on 8mm flat stock (old part of garage door opener) double bolted through bumber (steel part). Are they blocking too much of the rad? Let me know what you think.




2. Wiring - I know that typically you splice into the high beam wire to comply with the requirement for them to go out by turning off the high beams, but I was wondering about the fogs (Bosch lights hiding under the Ford covers). If you are running in fog or snow it would be advantageous to be able to run them. Doug T. mentioned one time to put them on a DPDT (or SPDT) switch so you could operate them independantly. Legal?



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Dave Cotie
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Re: Lightbar - Looking for Input
Reply #1 - 08/29/10 at 22:00:03
 
I can never remember the proper terminology for the switches... but basically, an ON-OFF-ON switch.  I use one of those.   It has two inputs and one output (or one input and two outputs, depending on how you see things).   Typically not found in the automotive section at Canadian Tire... usually in the home wiring section.  

One input is high beam power
one input is switched 12v power (or non-switched, so you can run lights without the ignition being on)

Output goes to the individual switches for lights.  Those switches control the relays for the lights.  

Then... my 3-way switch can be wired such that:
up = high beams must be on for aux. lights (CARS requirement)
middle = lights can't come on at all
down = lights can come on without using high beams... useful for fog light situations... or if you lose switched high-beam power... or you want to illuminate something without the keys in the ignition (just arrived at the cottage, and you can't leave your headlights on to illuminate the walkway to the door)

Legal for MTO/Ontario requirements.... who knows!  I've heard the odd horror story for having aux. lights mounts.  Personally, I've never been hassled... not on all of the cars I've ever mounted lights to.  


I wouldn't worry about that blocking the rad too much.  Watch the temps, if you notice an increase, look for possible modifications.

I think you need to polish your headlights.  Wet-sand with a range of paper upto 2000x... then a quick polish with some plastic polish.  Makes the headlights shine like new!  I've got a buffing wheel on a furnace motor (~1700rpm IIRC)... bit of polish on the wheel, then run it over the headlights.  Takes all of 30 seconds to polish the headlight.  

My first attempt was with a '95 Escort.  The headlights were essentially useless due to oxidation/pitting/etc.  I sanded and polished, and they shone like new!  Dad has done it to a pair of Outback headlights, and was quite amazed at how they turned out.  Just wax them occasionally to put some UV protectant on there... sanding and polishing removes any UV coatings that remained on the plastic, and they will start to yellow over time.  I don't recommend trying to spray-bomb them with the automotive clearcoat that CTC sells... it's too "hot" and may melt the lenses.   Ask me how I found that out...  Roll Eyes
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Dave Cotie
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Re: Lightbar - Looking for Input
Reply #2 - 08/29/10 at 22:17:03
 
dtompsett wrote on 08/29/10 at 22:00:03:
I think you need to polish your headlights.  Wet-sand with a range of paper upto 2000x... then a quick polish with some plastic polish.  Makes the headlights shine like new!  I've got a buffing wheel on a furnace motor (~1700rpm IIRC)... bit of polish on the wheel, then run it over the headlights.  Takes all of 30 seconds to polish the headlight.  

My first attempt was with a '95 Escort.  The headlights were essentially useless due to oxidation/pitting/etc.  I sanded and polished, and they shone like new!  Dad has done it to a pair of Outback headlights, and was quite amazed at how they turned out.  Just wax them occasionally to put some UV protectant on there... sanding and polishing removes any UV coatings that remained on the plastic, and they will start to yellow over time.  I don't recommend trying to spray-bomb them with the automotive clearcoat that CTC sells... it's too "hot" and may melt the lenses.   Ask me how I found that out...  Roll Eyes


I have two headlights coming from another Legacy and I have a couple of 3M Headlight polishing kits. I am going to clean them up. They are really bad.  Sad
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Dave Cotie
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Dave Cotie
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Re: Lightbar - Looking for Input
Reply #3 - 09/06/10 at 23:06:23
 
Used one of the 3M kits on the headlights that I got from Cory. Worked fantastic - just like new. Polished them up and put 4 coats of wax on them.

Good thing I picked up the set from Cory, when I pulled of the right side one off my car there were pieces of the refleector bouncing around inside the light! Shocked
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Re: Lightbar - Looking for Input
Reply #4 - 09/07/10 at 07:42:59
 
Dave Cotie wrote on 08/29/10 at 21:04:47:
2. Wiring - I know that typically you splice into the high beam wire to comply with the requirement for them to go out by turning off the high beams, but I was wondering about the fogs (Bosch lights hiding under the Ford covers).



Regs say all auxiliary lights should be off one switch that also operates the highbeams IIRC.  They're also mounted a bit high for fogs, so cutoff pattern and aim will be critical to avoid glare in snow or fog.  Most cars are wired to shut off fogs when the highbeams come on because you can only have 4 forward facing lights over 300 candela in Ontario at any given time.  

I believe the term for the switch is DPDT.  

If anyone ever pulls you over for the lights when they're turned off, just politely tell the officer, "I'm allowed a maximum of four lights with output over 300 candela in the HTA.  They don't have output when they're off, so it is not a violation of the HTA to have them mounted and able to work, just as long as they are turned off."  

If the officer argues that's not how it works, then point out any car sold out of a dealership with factory fog lights would also be illegal because they have six bulbs... but only allow four to operate at any given time.  Just like you.   Wink

If you get caught USING THEM though, well, you reap what you've sown.

I don't think you'll have cooling problems with the lights, but if you do, try using ducting in the lower opening to tightly channel cooling to the radiator.  Don't allow it to go around or under the rad and you should be fine.
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Re: Lightbar - Looking for Input
Reply #5 - 09/07/10 at 13:18:27
 
HTA 62(9) Strength of Front Lamps-No motor vehicle shall carry on the front thereof more than four lighted lamps that project a beam having an intensity of over 300 candela.

As long as the lights are off you're all good.  I also read this as, you can have as many lighted lights as long as only 4 are over 300 candela.  What 300 candela is I haven't a clue.  In other words 300 candela would be the minimum output for each headlight.
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Re: Lightbar - Looking for Input
Reply #6 - 09/07/10 at 14:31:51
 
Da_Moose wrote on 09/07/10 at 13:18:27:
As long as the lights are off you're all good.  I also read this as, you can have as many lighted lights as long as only 4 are over 300 candela.  What 300 candela is I haven't a clue.  In other words 300 candela would be the minimum output for each headlight.

Candela is a measure of luminous intensity over a given angle.  It relates to other measures like this:

- lumen: luminous flux - how much light your bulb puts out in total.
- candela: luminous intensity - how much light your headlight assembly (taking into account all the mirrors and lenses) puts out in a particular direction.  It doesn't change with distance.
- lux: illuminance - how brightly an object is lit up.  This depends not only on luminous intensity of the lamp, but how far away the object is.

Short version: 300 candela is more than a turn signal or marker light, but less than a normal daytime running light.  It's definitely less than any headlight or driving light.
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Re: Lightbar - Looking for Input
Reply #7 - 09/07/10 at 15:34:00
 
If a cop stops you they have no way of measuring it.   As Jeff put it Candelas are a luminous intensity.  They would have to capture all the light coming out of your lightblub which would be impossible.  There are detectors like this one http://www.hotektech.com/GossMavoMonitor.htm.

It would be fightable in court; however, full rally high beams are not safe in traffic by any means. Same thing if the cop doesn't radar you but still says you're speeding.
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Re: Lightbar - Looking for Input
Reply #8 - 09/07/10 at 16:24:50
 
[quote author=436C6F6F5641686E6867090 link=1283133887/0#6 date=1283887911]Da_Moose wrote on 09/07/10 at 13:18:27:
Short version: 300 candela is more than a turn signal or marker light, but less than a normal daytime running light.  It's definitely less than any headlight or driving light.


I know what a candela is a unit of just didn't know what it meant in practical terms but this explains it perfectly.  Thank You.

I had always read the law to state that 300 candela is the maximum output of headlights until I re-read it today.  So legally there is no maximum output but you can only have 4 lights lit at a time.  This is good to know.  Obviously driving with fully lit rally lights with cars around isn't a good idea.  Only question is can they be considered as high beams? Legally speaking of course.
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Dave Cotie
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Re: Lightbar - Looking for Input
Reply #9 - 09/07/10 at 20:16:22
 
I think I will keep it simple and wire the lights as required - tied-in to the high beam switch.

If I get into snow or fog, I can use the low beams and the factory fogs. Later I could replace the factory fogs with something better.

Since the 3M kit worked so well, I might try polishing the factory fog light lenses too. They are sand-blasted all to heck.
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Re: Lightbar - Looking for Input
Reply #10 - 09/07/10 at 20:59:56
 
Dave Cotie wrote on 09/07/10 at 20:16:22:
I think I will keep it simple and wire the lights as required - tied-in to the high beam switch.


I'm not sure from the way that you're saying it... you should be using the high beams only for "signal" going into a relay and the power lines to the relay should be coming from thicker gauge wire than OE.  14 gauge usually works well.  

http://www.rallylights.com/hella/AuxLampWiring.aspx
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/SensibleWiring.aspx
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/Relays.aspx

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Dave Cotie
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Re: Lightbar - Looking for Input
Reply #11 - 09/07/10 at 21:31:12
 
That is what I meant.

I have had the "rallylights" web site in my favourites for about 10 years now. I have a Hella wiring harness that I purchased from Paul H. about 3 years ago.

The lights will go on right after the garage finishes the safety!
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Dave Cotie
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Re: Lightbar - Looking for Input
Reply #12 - 09/07/10 at 21:43:51
 
Dave... if you wanted to wire in with a 3-way switch... and need some help... I'm more than happy to lend a hand.  

(Just swing on over to Sudbury!   Wink )
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